Originally printed February 5, 2017.
Is this wise?
This question came up again and again in the days before my hike as I watched the projected high temperature for Kewaunee drop each day. For several reasons, I’ve developed a healthy respect for extreme cold. First, I had several childhood experiences of losing feeling in my extremities, and I remember all too well the pain that came with getting the feeling back in my hands and feet. Second, I recently finished reading “A Walk in the Woods,” including the chapter on hypothermia. Last, I’ve read more than my fair share of Jack London short stories, and I did not want to star in my own version of “To Build a Fire. So, I had good reasons to ask if my decision to hike in extremely cold weather was a wise one.
Ultimately, I decided to go for it for several reasons. The trail was flat and tree-lined for much of the way, so I would have some cover from the wind. Also, the trail runs mainly from the northwest to the southeast. With west winds predicted for that day, the wind would be at my back. I was confident in my conditioning and in my gear. Finally, I would have access to my trail angel in case of an emergency.
That trail angel, Bruce, met me Friday morning at the trail’s end in Kewaunee. He recently retired after a 40 year career working at the Point Beach power plant. On our way to the drop off point, we swapped stories about how we came to appreciate the Ice Age Trail. Bruce initially was attracted to the beauty of the trail. As he learned more about the support group behind the trail, he became more and more impressed with its organization. Now he is very involved in trail maintenance in his neck of the woods. After exchanging emails and talking on the phone, it was nice to finally meet him.
The Kewaunee River segment was 12.6 miles. It ran concurrent with part of the Ahnapee State Trail roughly parallel with the Kewaunee River. Formerly, it was rail bed for the Ahnapee & Western Railroad. According to the Ice Age Trail Alliance’s guide, this line began in 1892, and, “It connected Green Bay and Kewaunee at Casco Junction via the Green Bay and Western railway. Steam and diesel powered locomotives hauled lumber, shipbuilding materials, dairy products, petroleum products and other commodities.” During WWII, it hauled German POWs to Door County to pick fruit. Ultimately, it shut down operations in the early 1970s. Now, this section of rail bed is a multi-use trail about 12 – 15 feet wide and paved with fine gravel. From what I could gather, hikers, snowshoe lovers, cross-country skiers and snowmobilers use it during the winter, while hikers, runners and bicyclists enjoy it in warm weather months.
My hike began just before 8:30 under bright sunshine and brilliant blue skies. The winds seemed calm. I later learned that the temperature in Kewaunee was 3 above, with the wind chill at minus 10. For the bulk of my hike, the trail ran through pretty remote country. I hiked though miles of wooded countryside broken up every now and then by a house or a farm on a hill overlooking the trail.
It appeared to me as if the trail had been groomed somewhat. There were no snowdrifts to speak of, and I could see tire tracks. My guess was that a jeep or and ATV had a long cylindrical buffer on it that mowed down the drifts so that a 2-3 inch crust remained. It made it much easier to walk, but it was still work. For one thing, I was wearing heavy boots instead of my usual footwear. My usual shoes weigh roughly a pound each. My boots weigh a little more that 22 ounces. It may not seem like much, but lifting that extra weight takes a toll over 12.6 miles. Also, while there was an apparent hard crust of snow, I often broke through it. This caused my ankles and knees to twist and turn in unplanned, sometimes painful ways – especially my right knee. I wanted to be form-conscious, but it was impossible to do so under the circumstances. I need to get some practice miles in using snowshoes before I attempt going longer distances on the trail.
For the most part, it was very peaceful and quiet on the trail, but signs of life were everywhere in the form of animal tracks of all types. More than anything, I saw scads of deer tracks. This trail must double as an expressway for them. I took some pictures, but not as many as I wanted since I wanted to keep my hands covered. I need to do some further research so I can better identify what I’m seeing.
About a third of the way into my hike, I began to notice “heat” on the toe right next to the big toe of my right foot – blisters! I needed to get some moleskin on the affected area, or the rest of my hike would get very painful. Since it was single digit cold at the time, this was something I needed to plan. First, I cut some moleskin and placed it underneath the edge of my gaiter on my left leg. Then, I moved my backpack under my right leg so I could elevate the foot away from the snow. Next, I quickly removed the boot and sock to see the area. Sure enough, the area was a little rubbed raw, but there was no blister. Amazing how my foot was steaming in the cold winter air. Very quickly, I got the moleskin in place, put on my sock and then my boot, and got on my way. Once I got home, I found that a blister had developed, but the moleskin helped me to delay the process for a while.
The Big Thrill for this hike was the sight of my first bald eagle as it circled overhead in search for some lunch. Other than that, the only critters I saw were a squirrel, some horses, a goose and some crows.
Throughout my hike, I traveled through sections of the C.D. “Buzz” Besadny State Fish and Wildlife Area. For the most part, it was wooded, but the last 2-3 miles of it was marsh land. Quite a contrast with the first nine miles or so of my hike. In warmer weather, this would likely be a great spot for bird watching. On this trek, I saw nothing except a lot of animal tracks.
As I pulled into the home stretch of the hike, I came to the realization that I had worn too many layers of clothes. Underneath my jacket, I was extremely warm and soaked through my clothing with perspiration(Actually, I lost nearly 3 pounds hiking in this extremely cold weather.). Fortunately, I was wearing wool, which maintains heat even when wet. But I was lucky. If had to stop for any length of time due to injury, those wet clothes would have gotten cold in a hurry! From my cross country skiing experience, I know the wisdom of dressing light to avoid overheating. But, I honestly thought it would be nearly impossible to overheat when it was so cold. Guess I learned a lesson there. I should have packed some of those layers to put on if needed, as opposed to wearing them. A second lesson was also learned – have some dry clothes available to replace those wet ones for the drive home. I was pretty clammy all the way back to Shorewood!
My Days on the Ice Age Trail 